What It Means to Come Home: Reading The Odyssey on Agistri

I’ve been reflecting on a recent trip to Greece, where I joined the London Literary Salon to read Homer’s Odyssey on the island of Agistri. I keep returning to the question: why a travel study?

Something shifts when we step away from the familiar. The ferry across the Aegean marked the beginning of that shift, old friends and new chatting in the wind, all of us quietly wondering what we were heading toward. When we arrived at Rosy’s seaside sanctuary, it became clear: this wasn’t a holiday. It was an immersion.

Each morning began with gentle yoga by the sea—our plank pose held for the span of a Shakespeare sonnet in call-and-response—then voice work with Jane to ground us in breath and sound. Evenings were for sharing food, ideas, and laughter. And in between, we read. Two-hour sessions with Toby guiding us through The Odyssey, supported by Caroline’s curated contemporary poems and insights.

Together, we travelled with Odysseus, Penelope, Telemachus, and Athena. We discussed betrayal, resilience, grief, longing, hospitality. And always, we circled back to the question: what does it mean to come home? We read The Odyssey because its themes endure, and because we endure. Penelope waits and weaves; we know what that feels like. Odysseus is clever, flawed, and longing for home, and so are we.

I had the chance to facilitate a writing session and some casual weaving. We wrote in response to the theme “I Am From”, tracing the threads of our own stories of home. We wove yarn onto rocks, creating patterns from whatever materials we had to hand.

We climbed to old churches, tasted pistachios, swam in the cold, cold sea (yikes!). We weathered wind and rain, and stood under the sun to share poems: Sappho, Cavafy, Homer, the Pope’s final letter. The youngest among us, a recent classics graduate, read in ancient Greek. The oldest read aloud from her own work.

I stood before the group to read my Penelope monologue, a piece begun for my MSc dissertation and shaped anew by the island. The sea stretched out behind me like a quilt of blues. I heard my voice—its uncertainty, and its emerging strength.

This is the kind of experience I never want to underestimate. The richness of connection, to story, to self, to nature, to each other, is something to return to, again and again. Increasingly, research supports what the Greeks knew all along: art is good medicine. And during this week, the poetry of Homer brought us together.

We walked, read, made, wrote, listened, shared. We disassembled and reassembled stories, our own and Homer’s. And by the end, I realised I hadn’t just travelled away. I had travelled toward something. Toward the part of myself that is most at home: in language, in community, in curiosity.

So, coming home isn’t always about returning to where you started. Sometimes it’s about recognising yourself more fully when you get there.

See more images from Agistri on our Gallery page.

Return to The Odyssey


Our 2025 Odyssey study on Agistri runs from 28 April to 5 May, there are still places available if you are interested in joining us.

Ten good reasons to read Ulysses . . .

  • Ulysses teaches you to be a better reader.
  • Reading Ulysses helps you to understand your own interior thoughts and language.
  • Ulysses is frighteningly pertinent to today’s climate of xenophobia and tyranny.
  • Ulysses is funny.
  • Ulysses features a dancing, singing bar of soap.
  • Everyone who reads Ulysses finds references, allusions and images that resonate.
  • Once banned for obscenity, Ulysses is up-close and personal to the body.
  • The language of Ulysses can be breathtakingly beautiful: “The heaventree of stars hung with humid nightblue fruit . . .”
  • The vivid and seductive response to ignorance and injustice in Ulysses will inspire you.
  • Ulysses is the story of one man, but a woman (Molly) gets the last word!

What past Ulysses readers in the Salon have said:

“I must thank you for a most wonderful study of Ulysses. I couldn’t imagine that I would actually make it through.  Occasionally I felt inadequate, but always eager and always willing to reach. And what a reward in the end: to have read a brilliant novel, and to have made a connection with a group of fellow voyagers that I cannot praise enough. How fortunate we have all been. It is never really over though is it? Bloom will be with me forever, pulling me back to Dublin and the streets therein.”

“Those of us who have done Proust and Ulysses with Toby are longing for her to take us on another read . . . We all love the long read.”

For more on this join my lecture and discussion Why Read Ulysses? (Tuesday 24 November on Zoom), the cost is redeemable against our next Ulysses study starting in January 2025.

Can’t read? Won’t read?

We loved reading Night and Day in Alfriston!

Each travel study is its own epic experience. We work hard to put together the text, the group, a special site, unique eating experiences, relevant gallery or museum visits, outdoor adventures and of course, a wild swim or two, but still I experience a healthy anxiety in hoping that all the planning will result yet again in the magical coming together of minds, words and ideas that makes these times so unique. 

The study of a book that I have not previously worked through makes this pre-trip tension even greater. For our latest big Woolf read, Night and Day in Alfriston earlier this month, I had the great privilege of working with Dr. Karina Jakubowicz, whose deep knowledge, great energy and humour made the facilitation electric. She also makes a fine fire!

Added to this, we had a core group of dedicated Woolfians – some of whom are in the ongoing diary study of Woolf – who had prepared reflections from that work that informed our reading of Night and Day

We were also truly enriched by our contact and meeting with the brilliant folks at Much Ado Books in Alfriston. The space they have created, with such love for books and art, welcomes all readers into the bright and illuminating world of beautiful books. They have a wonderful variety of rooms and extra buildings dedicated to different aspects of literary art, and they kindly hosted one of our sessions in the barn that houses their collection of Book Art – a vibrant response to the meeting of word and material. I value this connection greatly and was inspired by their embracing space and passion for books. We plan to be back in Alfriston next April and look forward to more events and exchanges with this very special location.

On first diving-in, Night and Day can seem like a conventional late nineteenth century novel of romantic entanglements, but our time around the work introduced new understanding as we were guided by Woolf’s probing – and at times ironic – gaze into family life, women’s work and social relationships in the late Edwardian era. In his literary theories, Mikhail Bakhtin developed the proposal that social situation and relationships determine the structure of utterance. Night and Day, positioned at a moment of immense change in the world, as portrayed in Woolf’s later novels, captures this change by using traditional language to address the rigid values around marriage, love and the position of women. But into this (teetering) order, Woolf inserts dreams, darknesses, gaps in language and volition that reflect the difficulty of resistance to a system in which one is embedded. By the novel’s end, some of the characters are stepping out towards a new world, just as Woolf herself will move towards more experimental forms of language and complex understanding of character in all her subsequent works. 

During our time in Alfriston, some of us would venture to Seaford early in the mornings for a dip in the sea to get our minds moving. As we drove to the beach on 13 April, we learned of the Iranian missile attack on Israel (particularly relevant to one of our participants, a political journalist whose radio interview that morning was abruptly cancelled). Suddenly, war and global conflict invaded our idyll, giving us a different understanding of how Woolf could have written this most domestic of novels in the midst of the Great War (a concern voiced by many critics, especially in her immediate group). We realised that with the threat of war around us (and I believe that awareness of our global position means we are all implicated in war anywhere in the world) we might turn purposefully to the drama of human relationships, where conflict can spark and glow to destruction. We also reflected that, in the chaos of the news around us, the generation of hope in human potential for progressive change is an ember that must be nurtured. 

There were so many moments of glittering insight and pleasure during our time together engrossed in this lesser-known Woolf work. I became aware of how the great privilege of time dedicated to this process of exploration results in an expanded space in the mind. Like swimming in fresh waters, the flotsam is softened and made fluid. With time spent focusing on a narrative, away from the needs of home, work and family, my mind gains strength as I move towards a healthy kind of attention. 

The study of great literature gives me an envelope within which to manage the disparate struggles of being human. There is no absolute truth to learn, but always a greater understanding of who we are in relationship to others and the world around us.

Odyssean dreams

As we begin to prepare for our next visit to the Greek island of Agistri for another week reading Homer’s Odyssey (28 April – 5 May 2023) here are a few reflections on our past experiences.

Jane, Caroline and I have now run two Odyssey retreats at Rosy’s Little Village on the island of Agistri in the Saronic Gulf near Athens. Each of these journeys has been personally and collectively deeply fulfilling. It is such a beautiful indulgence to spend a week fully immersed in an epic that – however much I may think I know of the narrative – surprises me on every reading with what it reveals about human nature, the deep past, our present relationships, the encounter with the stranger . . .

That quality of immersion, away from loud and full regular life, allows the mind to expand in unexpected ways. And then there is the space itself: Rosy and family have a created a unique environment, full of natural beauty and views over the crystalline waters, which feeds the imaginative realm. This is not to forget the wonderful feeding of the body, the food at Rosy’s is deliciously fresh and thoughtfully created. 

We have devised a schedule that combines the rigour of study with time to reflect and enjoy the place itself. Caroline’s guidance through contemporary poetic interpretations of the Odyssey is often cited as a favourite part of our week together, as is Jane’s generous sharing of her talent and passion for enacting the text: the words come alive as each participant has the opportunity to prepare a passage with her expert coaching and support. Without giving too much away, Jane and Caroline have activities and sessions planned that open us all up to each other and to the themes and language of the text. 

Every journey through the Odyssey in Agistri feels almost dreamlike as we experience the beauty of the place and the depths we are able to discover in our work together. And then there is the swimming, the sunshine, the company . . .

Many of last year’s participants are returning to Agistri with us to enjoy reading Aeschylus’s Oresteia (which is fully booked) and here are some of their comments on the Odyssey experience:

“It was a wonderful trip . . . the landscape, especially around the islands, is so seductive that you can see how these wonderful texts were written.”
 
“I loved the discussions around the text and getting to know a fascinating group of people.”
 
“It was an amazing and enriching experience.”

The Odyssey group on Agistri in 2022

There are still some places available on this year’s Odyssey trip if you would like to join us for this special offering!

The enduring appeal of the long read . . .

Some years ago, we were told about the great work Kate Slotover and Laura Potter were doing in opening up literature to readers everywhere. Laura and Kate founded The Book Club Review Podcast – an energetic discussion about what to read and how different readers may respond. In their words:

“We founded The Book Club Review Podcast to turn the solitary act of reading into a shared experience.

Loved the book? Loathed it? So much the better. We’re all about big opinions. We live for the great debate, the heated discussion, the ‘I see what you’re saying, but here’s why you’re wrong’ rant. With good humour. With respect. But with commitment too. Because the world has forgotten that disagreement is good for us. That it’s the friction of debate that sparks off new ideas, new perspectives – just like a good book. Bring the two together and there’s really nothing better.”

We are great admirers of their work which, as you can see, dovetails beautifully with the energy of exploration we generate in the Salon, so I was happy to spend a delicious February evening discussing doorstoppers – and WHY read them – with Laura, Kate and Phil Chaffee in the latest episode of the podcast.

The result is recommended listening for anyone who is either enjoying or feeling daunted by the ‘big’ books featured in Salon studies. If you like what you hear, take a look at previous episodes (including their 2019  interview with me about what the London Literary Salon does) and subscribe to the podcast newsletter to be alerted to new ones.

ULYSSES centenary!

Toby reading to crowds gathered outside Shakespeare and Company in Paris,
100 years to the day since the first publication of Ulysses

Founder and Director of the London Literary Salon, Toby Brothers, is in Paris today to celebrate the centenary of publication of Ulysses. Scandalous in 1922, the book – widely acclaimed as a work of genius – remains controversial a century later!

Expect more news of Joyceans en fête in Paris on Toby’s return.

Travel Studies: journeys to the centre of so many things

Leah Jewett (far left) and other members of The Years study group, St Ives, September 2021



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